South Korean men lead the world's male beauty market. Will the West ever follow suit?

South Korean men have long embraced beauty products deemed
unmarketable to their Western counterparts. Over the past decade,
they have become the world's biggest male spenders on skincare,
a market that grew by 44% in the country between 2011 and 2017,
according to Euro-monitor.

South Korean men have long embraced beauty products deemed unmarketble to their Western counterparts.

 South Korean men have long embraced beauty products deemed unmarketble to their Western counterparts. Credit: Kim Taehwan

This figure is even higher for Generation Z respondents, with 58% of those
born after 2000 saying they pamper themselves with "lengthy" beauty or
grooming treatments at least once per week, compared to 34% of South
Korean men overall.

This phenomenon can be explained in part by the influence of K-pop,
according to Roald Maliangkay, director of the Korea Institute at The
Australian National University.

Actor Lee Dong-wook poses for Boy de Chanel.

Actor Lee Dong-wook poses for Boy de Chanel

"I am struck by how many local young men are now emulating the look
typical of Korean male idols," he said in an email describing a recent visit to
Seoul's old city center district, Myeongdong. "I saw many men in sharply
cut outfits with perfectly groomed dyed hair and double eyelids (as a result
of cosmetic surgery), and I even noticed a few men wearing some light
makeup."

The trend may also result from pressure on men to compete in a tough job
market, according to James Turnbull, a writer and lecturer based in the city
of Busan, South Korea, who specializes in Korean feminism and popular
culture.

"In this cut-throat environment, 20- and 30-somethings are all about
improving their 'specs' with extra degrees, courses, internships, English
-language qualifications and so on, and the beauty industry has been quick
to address the need to get a step up on the competition through one's
looks too," Turnbull said in an email, adding that Korean companies
routinely ask job applicants for photographs on their resumes.

Reaction to machismo

The origins of South Korea's male beauty obsession may be more complex,
however. Maliangkay's  2010 study "The effeminacy of male beauty in
Korea" highlights an alternative theory (proposed by Turnbull): that the
rejection of traditional masculinity was in fact led by women as a backlash
against severe gender inequality.

One of the main catalysts, the paper argues, was the 1997 Asian financial
crisis (known in South Korea as the "IMF crisis"). Unemployment across
the country rose, but figures show that women were disproportionately
affected.

In the year following the crash, female employment fell by 8.2 percent,
almost 3 percentage points more than the equivalent figure for men.
Resentment over this and other workplace inequalities, as well as the rise
of literature and film questioning traditional gender roles, led women to
seek out softer male figures who, as Malingkay writes, "had the potential to
make the opposite sex feel more powerful."

But men may have been complicit in this shift, Maliangkay suggested. 

"Today's (male) students, after all, are less likely to find much appeal in the
macho type that for decades dominated in popular entertainment," he
wrote in the paper. "Those tough men usually had no chance of going to
university and/or of leading normal, quiet lives. Instead, they were forced to
show their grit as soldiers, gangsters or policemen, often sorting out
differences through violent means, while appearing fragile only in their
inability to express their feelings in words."

A new breed of "kkotminam" (Korean for "flower boys") has helped reshape masculinity in a culture that still values tradition -- even when it comes to gender roles.

A new breed of "kkotminam" (Korean for "flower boys") has helped reshape masculinity in a culture that still values tradition -- even when it comes to gender roles

Maliangkay told CNN that he no longer uses the word "effeminate" when
discussing the male beauty phenomenon.

"It may appear as 'effeminate' to non-Koreans, but it's probably better
described differently," he explained. "To Koreans, for example, someone
who fits the ideal can certainly still be considered very macho. While many
Koreans will continue to find, for example, applying makeup a little odd for
men, they will not associate that with any effeminacy per se." 

Katherine Spowart, who runs the beauty blog SkinfullofSeoul, stressed that
Korean men still face specific social pressures: "Male beauty is generally
much more accepted as a concept in South Korea, but it doesn't relieve
each gender of their traditional roles in mainstream culture," she said in an
email.

"Gender roles are still fairly rigid, sexual choices other than heterosexuality
are generally not talked about, and it's a patriarchal culture."


Trend spreading west?

Some beauty brands are betting on Western men joining the pursuit of
perfect brows and flawless skin. In September, Chanel released Boy de
Chanel, its first cosmetics range for men. The line features eight shades of
tinted foundation, a two-in-one brow pencil and brush, and a transparent
matte lip balm. Aiming to "write the vocabulary of a new personal aesthetic
for men," the French house piloted the collection in South Korea before
making it available online to US shoppers last November.

A model poses for a Boy de Chanel, Chanel's first makeup line for men.

A model poses for a Boy de Chanel, Chanel's first makeup line for men

But there are still huge challenges for beauty brands intending to woo men,
according to David Yi, founder of the US-based male beauty blog Very
Good Light.

"There are still many, many years until makeup becomes widely accepted
in the US," he said in an email interview.

"South Korea is so progressed when it comes to beauty," he added. "They
have a makeup look solely for men that's completely different from women,
which is what K-pop male stars subscribe to."

Besides, in a South Korean context, Boy de Chanel isn't exactly
revolutionary. Yi considers it to be skincare rather than makeup. ("A
foundation or eyebrow pencil is hardly makeup," he explained). 

David Yi, founder of the US-based male beauty blog, Very Good Light.
David Yi, founder of the US-based male beauty blog, Very Good Light

This seems to be Chanel's message too: The fashion house's Instagram
account posted a traditionally masculine model applying the barely-there
foundation to achieve what the campaign describes as a "natural look."

Sarah Lee, co-founder of Glow Recipe, a cult US skincare brand and
retailer of Korean beauty products, thinks male consumers in America
"tend to demand a distinctly masculine set of aesthetics."

"What is most exciting and meaningful about this line (Boy de Chanel) is
that it -- and products like it -- will open up beauty conversations for men
and help to drive visibility and adoption," she said in an email.

Ryan Sim, of the K-beauty blog Ryanraroar, cautiously echoed her optimism.

"I would like to think that the worldview on male beauty has shifted," he
said in an email, "from a face full of colors to a face of confidence." 

Written by : Jessica Rapp, CNN
Related: Photographers capture the rise of south Korea's 'Ioner' culture

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